St Aubin travel guide: the prettiest harbour village in Jersey

St Aubin: Jersey’s most charming harbour village

On the south-west shore of St Aubin’s Bay — the wide, shallow bay that sweeps from St Helier in the east to Noirmont Point in the west — sits St Aubin, the most photogenic village on the island and arguably in the whole of the British Channel Islands. A tightly packed knot of 17th and 18th-century merchant houses climbs the hillside above a small working harbour, with a handful of restaurants, two excellent pubs, and a causeway leading out to St Aubin’s Fort at low tide.

The village grew on the back of the cod trade: Jersey fishermen worked the Newfoundland Banks from the 16th to the 19th centuries, and St Aubin was their home port before St Helier’s deeper harbour took precedence. The wealth they brought back is still visible in the handsome granite townhouses on the High Street and the Bulwarks below.

Things to do in St Aubin

The harbour and St Aubin’s Fort

St Aubin’s harbour is small — a hundred or so boats on a good day, mostly leisure craft and a few working lobster and crab boats — but it has a pleasing, unhurried atmosphere. The stone pier dates from the 1640s. At low tide, a causeway of rough stone and cobble extends to St Aubin’s Fort, a 16th-century tower that was expanded in the 18th century and is now privately owned but visible from the causeway. The tide here moves fast; check Jersey tide times before walking out.

The Bulwarks and the High Street

The Bulwarks is the narrow waterfront promenade directly below the old merchant houses — great for watching the tidal movement in the bay and for seeing Elizabeth Castle and St Helier in the distance. Behind it, the High Street climbs steeply through the old town, with the granite facades of former merchant houses on either side. Worth 20-30 minutes of wandering.

Open-top bus tours from St Aubin

St Aubin serves as the departure point for both the east coast and west coast open-top bus tours of Jersey. The east coast tour covers Gorey, Mont Orgueil Castle, and the Royal Bay of Grouville — great for history and castles. The west coast tour heads to Corbière Lighthouse, St Brelade’s Bay, and Plémont on the north coast — better for dramatic cliff scenery and beaches.

East coast open-top bus tour departing from St Aubin — Gorey and Mont Orgueil West coast open-top bus tour from St Aubin — Corbière and Plémont

Coastal walk west: St Aubin to Corbière Lighthouse

The coastal path from St Aubin to Corbière Lighthouse is one of the finest short walks in Jersey: about 4.5 miles one way, following the cliff top above St Brelade’s Bay, around the headland at La Coupée du Ouaisné, past Ouaisne Bay, and out to the dramatic rock-stack lighthouse at La Corbière. On a clear day the views reach the French coast. Allow 2-2.5 hours one way; return by bus or taxi from Corbière if you do not want to retrace your steps.

Jet ski from Noirmont Point

For something more active, the south-west coast jet ski tour departs from Noirmont Point, just around the headland from St Aubin. It covers the dramatic rocky coastline between St Aubin’s Bay and St Brelade’s Bay — sea caves, reefs, and the lighthouse at La Corbière — in about an hour. A skipper leads the group so no experience is required.

Jersey south-west coast jet ski tour — departing near St Aubin

Best restaurants and cafes in St Aubin

The Old Court House Inn is the most characterful pub-restaurant in the village: 15th-century building, low beams, fireplace, and a menu that covers pub classics, fresh crab, and Jersey Royals in season. The courtyard terrace is hard to beat on a sunny afternoon.

The Salty Dog Bar and Bistro sits directly on the waterfront with tables almost touching the boats. Good burgers, fresh fish, and an easy atmosphere. Popular with locals and sailors.

The Boat House has a more contemporary feel — modern brasserie cooking, a decent wine list, and a first-floor terrace with bay views across to St Helier and Elizabeth Castle.

Borsalino’s is the local Italian: no sea view, but reliably good pasta and pizza and the kind of neighbourhood warmth that you do not always find in visitor-focused restaurants.

For the broader food picture on the island, see the Channel Islands food guide and the Jersey guide.

Where to stay in St Aubin

St Aubin’s accommodation is limited but high quality. The Old Court House Inn has rooms above the pub (booking essential in summer). Panorama Guest House, up the hill with bay views, is a well-regarded B&B. Several self-catering cottages are available in the village and on the hillside above.

St Aubin also makes a good overnight base if you are combining the west coast and the coastal path in two half-days: stay one night, walk to Corbière and back, and bus into St Helier the following morning. For the full accommodation picture, see where to stay in Jersey.

Getting to St Aubin

From St Helier: Liberty Bus routes 12 and 12A run from St Helier bus station to St Aubin in about 10 minutes, with services every 15-20 minutes during the day. Fare approximately £2.50. This is the easiest option without a car.

By car or bike: St Aubin is a 10-minute drive from St Helier on the Esplanade coast road. Parking in the village is limited; arrive before 10:00 in summer for a harbourfront space. The coastal cycle path from St Helier runs along the promenade directly to the village.

On foot: The walk from St Helier along the promenade and beach path takes about 40-45 minutes and is one of the most pleasant walks in Jersey — flat, scenic, and suitable for pushchairs.

See the public transport in Jersey guide for Liberty Bus routes and fares.

Beaches near St Aubin

St Aubin’s Bay beach stretches from the village east along the promenade towards St Helier — a long, flat, sandy beach that is gently shelved and safe for children. Good for swimming in summer; the western end near the village is the least used by day-trippers from St Helier.

St Brelade’s Bay is 15 minutes by bus or car around the next headland — a sheltered, south-facing cove that is the best beach in Jersey for families. See the St Brelade guide for full detail.

Ouaisne Bay is a small, quieter cove tucked behind the headland between St Aubin’s Bay and St Brelade’s Bay. Local, undeveloped, and excellent for snorkelling when the tide is right.

St Aubin in the context of Jersey’s south-west

St Aubin sits at the geographical centre of Jersey’s most interesting coastal stretch. To the east, the promenade runs 3.5 miles to St Helier along the curve of St Aubin’s Bay — flat, walkable, and one of the finest seafront walks on the island. To the west, the coastal path climbs above St Brelade’s Bay past Ouaisne and Portelet before reaching the dramatic headland at La Corbière. To the north, the inland lanes wind through farming country to the vineyards at La Mare Wine Estate and the north coast.

The village has none of St Helier’s urban noise and none of St Brelade’s beach-resort commercialism. It occupies a particular niche: historic, genuinely pretty, and just large enough to have excellent independent restaurants without feeling like a tourist set piece.

The history of St Aubin as a port

Before St Helier’s harbour was developed in the 18th and 19th centuries, St Aubin was the principal port of Jersey. The town’s wealth came primarily from the Newfoundland cod trade: Jersey merchants established permanent stations (or “rooms”) on the Grand Banks and the Labrador coast, and the returning ships brought dried cod back to St Aubin to be processed and re-exported across Europe. The Channel Islands’ flag was a common sight in the ports of Iberia and the Mediterranean long before the British mainland developed comparable maritime links.

The physical legacy of this trade is everywhere: the granite warehouse buildings along the Bulwarks, the scale of the merchant houses on the High Street, and the fortified tower of St Aubin’s Fort. The town’s relative quietness today is a direct result of the shift to St Helier when the latter’s harbour was enlarged to accommodate the growing ferry and cargo trade. St Aubin was effectively preserved in aspic from the mid-19th century, which is why it looks the way it does.

Cycling and walking routes from St Aubin

St Aubin is one of the best starting points for cyclists on Jersey. The coastal cycle path east to St Helier (3.5 miles, entirely flat) is the most popular family cycling route on the island. The Green Lanes network — quiet country roads with a 15 mph speed limit that give priority to cyclists and walkers — fans out from the village north and west through the Jersey countryside. The self-guided e-bike tour from St Helier can be reversed to start from St Aubin if you prefer.

For walkers, the Coastal Path section from St Aubin to Corbière is one of the finest on the island: moderate gradient, spectacular cliff scenery, and the option of a refreshment stop at the Corbière signal station cafe before returning by bus.

Frequently asked questions — St Aubin travel guide

Is St Aubin worth visiting in Jersey?

Absolutely. Even if you spend only a couple of hours here, St Aubin offers the best-preserved historic village character in Jersey — something that the more developed St Helier can no longer offer. Combine it with the coastal walk west or an open-top bus tour and you have a full half-day.

How do I get from St Helier to St Aubin without a car?

Liberty Bus routes 12 and 12A run from St Helier bus station every 15-20 minutes; journey time 10 minutes, fare approximately £2.50. Or walk the promenade in about 45 minutes — flat and scenic.

What time does the causeway to St Aubin’s Fort open?

The causeway to the fort is only accessible at low tide, typically for 2-3 hours either side of low water. Check Jersey tide times before you go. The fort itself is privately owned and not open to visitors, but the walk out to it is worthwhile for the views.

Can I do a day trip to St Aubin from St Helier?

Easily — it is the default half-day excursion from the capital. Bus from St Helier bus station, wander the harbour and High Street, lunch at the Old Court House or the Salty Dog, catch the open-top bus tour departing from the village, and return by bus in the evening. The one day in St Helier itinerary can be extended to include a St Aubin afternoon.